Spirited
In a recent post I mentioned Rory Stewart’s trek across Afghanistan in 2002. The most gripping non-fiction I’d read in a long while. So when I spotted ‘Full Tilt’ just about hanging on at the tail end of my wish list of books it seemed the right time to acquire a copy. For a couple of pounds or so I purchased an extremely well ‘loved’ one. But it’s the contents that count.
Dervla Murphy’s adventurous journey from Dunkirk to Delhi on her faithful bicycle, Roz, is every bit as gripping as the Rory Stewart book. Maybe more so considering this was a 31 year old woman pedalling her way through territories that were strewn with hazards some four decades ahead of Stewart’s quest. Although banditry, it seems, has been included as part of the package throughout time. Some of the text strays into territory we would find unacceptable today. For instance, use of the ‘N’ word to describe the brown hue of some Afghan goats, and at first I thought I detected a feint tone of western superiority leaking into the writing, and it left me feeling that the no nonsense, best foot forward, stiff upper lip mind set was carrying the author along intellectually as much as her bicycle carried her physically. But it soon became evident this was not the case. Murphy comes across, repeatedly, as an entranced tourist, constantly in awe of the changing landscape and always with one eye searching beyond the horizon. She is sympathetic and thankful to the people who showed her kindness and hospitality along her perilous routes, despite their inescapable grinding hardships. She also expresses her frustration at the ways American and Russian involvement is disturbing the cultural balance and creating unrest, particularly among those young people who have had a taste of the other man’s grass. Namely western influences.
I’ve enjoyed this book immensely. So much so that I’ve ordered more from a long list of Dervla Murphy’s published works.
Talking of individuals with spirit, I saw a five CD set of individual albums BY Spirit, and couldn’t resist treating myself. I’d forgotten just how adventurous this band had been. Great music and not a bicycle or bandit in sight.




What a amazing journey! I enjoy the older travel books for a look at a time when tourists were rare. When I was a teen, I devoured Richard Halliburton's books. True, there is often an insensitivity that is jarring to a modern (dare I day woke) mind, but for a look at a bygone world, older travel books are the way to go.
I've read many of Dervla Murphy's books, she's consistently excellent and a great travel writer.